Metal Working Woodworking

DIY Live Edge Dining Table

My parents have been asking for a DIY live edge dining table for the longest time. But, I haven’t had the faith in my skills or my ability to build one just yet. That was until my amazing friends at The Home Depot and DAP Products partnered with me to help provide me with the tools and materials to make it happen, and I’m going to show you how I finally did it! P.S. Did I mention I welded those table bases? I’ve never welded before in my life!

DIY Live Edge Dining Table With Metal Legs

Want to see this build in action? Check it out on YouTube & make sure to subscribe to my channel!

This project is sponsored by The Home Depot & DAP Products.

As soon as I was ready to make this happen, I couldn’t wait to bring my parents to my favorite place on earth, NYCity Slab. This table started as two locally sourced pieces of Ash! Even cooler, Rob (the owner) is the literal best and flattened the slabs for me before getting started, since I don’t have heavy machinery to do so myself.

Ready to see how?

What You’ll Need:


Tape Measurer
Safety Goggles

Circular Saw (or, Track Saw)
Power Hand Planer (optional)
Biscuit Joiner
Drill Press (optional)
Right Angle Attachment (for tight spaces)
Drill & Driver Bits
Parallel Clamps

Metal Working
Angle Grinder
60 Grit Flap Disc
Metal Grinding Disc
Welding Helmet
Welding Gloves
Metal Clamps
Metal Drilling Bits
Router (optional)


(2) Live Edge Slabs
1 ½” Square Tubing (12 Gauge Steel)*
6″ Steel Flat Bar*
C-Channel (optional)*
Wood Biscuits
Carpenter’s Wood Glue
Rubio Monocoat Wood Finish in Pure
Metal Primer
Metal Enamel
Threaded Inserts
Threaded Socket Screw
Epoxy (optional)
Tyvek Tape (optional)

* Refer to cut list in step # if welding your own base – otherwise, check out these awesome options for pre-made table bases like mine on Etsy!

The Steps:

1. For this project, I used two live edge ash wood slabs that were about 8 feet long. To help make the build more manageable, I started by rough cutting the slabs to a few inches longer than my final dimension (which was 7 ½” feet long).

Because the slabs were so thick, I had to use a circular saw with power. So, I did this using my new 7 ¼” Brushless RIDGID Octane Circular Saw! The saw seriously cut through the slab like butter.

2. Once the slabs were cut to their rough size, I realized that they weren’t the same thickness. So, I used a power hand planer to flatten them and make them the same size.

3. Next, I used a track saw to cut one live edge off of each slab (if you don’t have a track saw, you can use a circular saw like the Brushless RIDGID Octane Circular Saw with a straight-edge guide).

4. Once the slabs were prepped, I prepped them for joinery by using a biscuit joiner to create grooves in both clean edges of the wood.

5. Next, I added an ample amount of DAP Carpenter’s Wood Glue to each of the edges. My best advice for joining your slabs is to use really strong wood glue, and my carpenter’s glue has legit never failed me.

6. After adding glue, I inserted biscuits into each slot and added even more glue.

7. After gluing, I pressed the boards together to line up the biscuits and clamped the slabs together using lots of clamps and even more patience.

8. The next day, I removed the slabs from the clamps and began to prep the slabs for resin (there were a lot of voids, cracks, and holes in the wood, so resin was a must). I did this by vacuuming the slabs and taping voids and holes that went all the way through the slabs.

9. Next, I mixed a batch of epoxy resin along with some brown pigment and filled the voids.

10. After the voids were filled and the resin cured, I removed the tape and used my hand planer and sander to remove the excess resin and sand the slab.

11. After prepping the table top, it was time for metal working (and my first time welding)! To make my life easier, I went to a Metal Masters on Long Island for my steel and had them cut my metal for me.

You can find my cut list here!

To prep the metal for welding, I used my brand new 4 ½” RIDGID Octane Angle Grinder and a 60 grit flap disc to grind away the metal on each end of the steel tubing and create a small bevel for the weld to sit. The grinder made it super easy to cut through the grime.

12. I wanted a welder that was beginner friendly, and Lincoln Electric came to the rescue on this one! After being introduced to the world of welding at WorkbenchCon last year, they sent me their Lincoln Power MIG 210, and it was so easy to set up – no gas needed! I just threaded my flux core wiring, plugged it in, put in the specs for my metal, and got started!

After a couple of practice welds I felt so comfortable and jumped right in! I started by clamping all of my tubing together to create my rectangular bases and then welded everything together (for a better idea as to how I did this, make sure to check out my video)!

13. In order to attach my welded base to my table, I had to weld the tubing to steel flat bar. But, before doing this, I drilled ½” openings into my flat bar to attach them to the table with threaded inserts later.

14. I then welded the tubing to the flat bar and then cleaned up my welds with my 4 ½” RIDGID Octane Angle Grinder.

15. Once the table bases were ready, I sprayed them with a few coats of metal primer and then finished them with black spray enamel.

16. While the bases dried, I decided to inlay c-channel into my slabs to help prevent them from twisting or warping. This step is optional for most builds, but I wanted to be safe. I did this by drilling ½” holes into my 36″ c-channel and then routing a channel in the underside of the table. I made the two side grooves about ½” deep and then routed a ¼” groove in the middle so the channel would lay flush in the table (check out my video to see how I did this in action).

17. Next, I finished the bottom of the table using my favorite wood finish.

18. After the bottom dried, I prepped by base by inserting plastic caps into the ends of each open tube and then installed the base to the table with threaded inserts.

I did have a few spots on the legs where I couldn’t get the drill to fit without rubbing against the paint, so I used my DeWalt Magnetic Right Angle Attachment to help install the threaded bolts.

19. I then flipped the table and finished with my favorite wood finish!

This one was a long, challenging project – but, totally worth it!

Now my family has a one of a kind of dining table for our family events! I’m so excited for Thanksgiving – it’s crazy!

Also, how about those gorgeous chairs from The Home Depot!?

If there is anything I learned on this build, it’s that you can do anything you put your mind to with the right research and the right community. I can’t thank my friends enough for being there to answer my questions, pushing me along the way, and reminding me that I can do it!

Want to save this build for a rainy day like I did? Make sure to Pin It!

In the meantime, please don’t forget to check out my build video on YouTube & subscribe for future projects (like the bench I want to make to match the table)!

Until next time, friends!

I acknowledge that The Home Depot and DAP Products are partnering with me to participate in the promotional program described above (the “Program”). As a part of the Program, I am receiving compensation in the form of products and services, for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are my own words. My post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.

Sam Raimondi

Sam is a full time psychologist and part time content creator from Long Island, New York.




  • Kyle Jorgensen

    Hi there

    Was curious what you use to finish your table tops?
    Great projects here. I’m a carpenter and I wish my wife would step out of her comfort zone.

    • Sam

      Hi! I’ve been using Rubio Monocoat lately and loving it!

  • Ryan

    How fresh were the pieces of ash? I found some local but somewhat fresh cut.

    • Sam

      The slabs I got were kiln dried for a long time before I got my hands on them. Freshly cut wood is most likely too moist to work with. You can get a moisture meter to test and be sure before you build!

  • Emma Garcia

    Does the table wobble a bit?

    • Sam

      Not at all!

  • ovi

    what wood finish do u use

  • Noah Marini

    What thickness did the table end up being, and what was the thickness of the slabs when you bought them? Wondering at what point the slab would be too heavy to deal with if I get a 3 incher.

  • Margot

    Heya! I was wondering if you did anything to the younger part of the wood (the live edge part) so it doesn’t fray away as the table ages? Thank you

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