DIY Storage Cabinet
I’m currently in the process of helping my parents finish up their basement, and one thing they really needed was a storage cabinet for their laundry room. So, I’ve been super hard at work making a design we had planned into a reality. Even better, I was able to create this DIY Storage Cabinet come to life with the help of my friends at DAP Products!
How To Build A Storage Cabinet
This project is sponsored by DAP Products and contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy, click here.
Want to see this build in action? Check it out on my YouTube channel!
Want to download printable plans for this build? Check them out here!
There are so many things I love about this build – the adjustable shelving, the color… really, I just love the whole thing! Ready to see how I did it? Let’s do this.
What I Used:
Tools
Table Saw/Circular Saw
Miter Saw/Circular Saw
Pocket Hole Jig
Drill/Driver Set
Nail Gun
Sander/Sandpaper
Clamps
Stain/Paint Supplies
Shelf Pin Jig
Carpenter’s Square
Cabinet Hinge Jig
Measuring Tape
Materials
(8) 2 X 2 X 8′ Boards
(1) Full Sheet 3/4″ Plywood
(1) 4 X 4′ Sheet 1/4″ Plywood
(2) 1 x 3 x 8′ Select Pine Boards
(3) 1 x 6 x 6 Poplar Boards
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
2 1/2″ Wood Screws
1 1/2″ – 2 1/2″ Brad Nails
DAP Carpenter’s Wood Glue
DAP Plastic Wood- X Wood Putty
DAP Premium Wood Filler
(8) Inset Cabinet Hinges
(4) Door Knobs
(8) Shelf Pins
Cabinet Paint (I used this one)
Wood Stain
The Steps:
1. Cut your pieces to the following lengths (for a full comprehensive cut list, make sure to download the printable plans):
2 x 2s:
(4) Legs @ 31 1/2″
(6) Long Stretchers @ 45″
(6) short Frames @ 12″
(11) Bottom Shelf @ 12″
(2) Center Supports @ 17 1/4″
3/4″ Plywood:
(1) Bottom Panel @ 12 x 45″
(2) Side Panels @ 12 x 12 1/4″
1 x 6 Poplar:
(3) 49″ Counter Top Panels
1/4″ Plywood:
(1) Back Panel @ 14 x 46″
(4) Cabinet Panels @ 7 x 18″ *
1 x 3s:
(8) Long Stiles @ 17″ *
(8) Short Rails @ 6″ *
*Cabinet door measurements are most accurate when measured while building. Double check these measurements before cutting.
2. Create your two cabinet side frames by attaching the short frame pieces to the legs using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws & wood glue.
3. Finish the frame by attaching the long frame pieces & center supports with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws & glue. Remember to check square as you build!
4. Add bottom shelf pieces – you can either use 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws here or 2 1/2″ brad nails with wood glue.
5. Add supports for the large cabinet shelf from 3/4″ plywood. Attach to cabinet using wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
6. Install shelf on top of supports with wood glue and brad nails.
7. Attach side plywood panels with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws & wood glue.
8. Attach center plywood panels with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws & wood glue.
9. Create two adjustable shelves from plywood & use wood putty to hide the raw edge of the plywood. I used DAP Plastic Wood X here and it worked great! Just sand it flat once it’s dry!
10. Attach to cabinet using shelf pins (which can be installed using a shelf pin jig).
11. I chose to make my doors using tongue & groove joinery and wood glue. I made them a little taller and wider than my final dimensions and then cut them down to size. Another way to build them is to use pocket holes to join the rails and stiles (see my other cabinet builds on my website for examples of this method).
12. Install your doors to your cabinet using inset hinges. You may have to trim and/or adjust your doors as you go. make sure to leave 1/16 to 1/8″ of clearance around all sides of the doors and the cabinet.
13. Create the top panel by gluing the three poplar boards together to make one solid counter top.
14. Fill all holes in cabinet and counter top before sanding and painting or staining your piece. DAP Plastic Wood X is perfect for this because it goes on pink and dries tan (that way you know when it’s safe to sand)!
If you are staining your piece, you can use a tintable wood putty like DAP Premium Wood Filler. Just add your desired stain until you’re happy with the color (I used it for the top of my cabinet and you can’t even see the holes)!
15. Attach 1/4″ back panel using brad nails (make sure to pre-paint this panel before installing).
16. Install your door hardware and you’re good to go!
I really am so excited about this build… although I think it’s a mix of finally being done with it and also seeing it come to life. There really are few feelings like building something you’ve been imagining in your head for a while…
Want to save this project for later? Make sure to Pin It!
Can’t wait to show you where this piece ends up! Until then, friends… Happy DIY’ing!
6 COMMENTS
Vanessa
3 years agoLOVE it
Sam
3 years ago AUTHORThank you!
Chris Adams
3 years agoBeautiful build and love watching your videos! I’m going to be building this piece and was hoping you could tell me which inset door hinges you used. I don’t have the Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig but will be purchasing it soon.
Craig Pierce
3 years agoThis is an awesome looking cabinet. Great job and thanks for sharing.
Dan
3 years agoReally Nice job. I picked up a couple of tips that I can use on some of my projects.
Brian
3 years agoHi Sam
This was a really cool build and congratulations.
Can I ask what was the small black clamp you used at one stage to hold the long stretcher in place before affixing.
Cheers
Brian